Thursday, July 31, 2014

Home is where the minions gather

July 31, 2014

I haven't been blogging for a while, because I've been staying with a home stay family here in Fes and I don't have internet access except when I'm at my Arabic classes or lectures at INLAC.  Here in Fes I am staying with the matriarch of a large family, named Fatima, and her adult son Adil.  Fatima speaks no English and Adil's English is quite limited so I'm definitely getting some Arabic language practice in although my most commonly uttered phrase is I don't understand or la afahamu لا أفهم 

The home itself has three stories (not counting the entrance on the ground floor) I am staying on the second floor in a room that I suspect was set up as a salon (living/sitting room), as there are banquette chairs lining all the walls (one of which has become my bed for the time being), with an ornate table in the middle.  However, we usually spend our time in the living room area that you see in the photos because that's where the TV is and its right next to the kitchen.  Moroccan TV is interesting and our nightly ritual of watching the news (mainly about Gaza), an odd but hilarious hidden camera prank show with no dialogue, and what I'm guessing is Morocco's Got Talent...which I'm not quite sure they do.  There's some decent acts, but mostly weird ones!

Perhaps most importantly though I should mention that we are celebrating Eid! The end of Ramadan and the breaking of the fast.  While I wasn't exactly fasting every day, its nice to be able to not worry about needing to hide in order to drink some water on a hot day.  Generally speaking I avoided eating or drinking in public during the day out of respect, because if I was fasting I wouldn't exactly appreciate an ignorant tourist rubbing it in by eating or drinking in front of me.

But getting back to Eid and the fun traditions involved. One aspect is the visiting of one's elders so as the matriarch of the family all of the Fatima's children and grandchildren, nieces and nephews have been coming by for some juice and sweets throughout the day.  The three young minions in the photo are Hamudah and Abudullah the sons of Fatima's daughter who lives across the street from INLAC, and

I don't understand how the Moroccans eat so many sweets. I feel the diabetes forming with the sugar I've been consuming and I am nowhere near the level of the Moroccans surrounding me.  You see those cookies on the table in front of Fatima and I, those are but a tiny fraction of what was consumed over the last couple of days.

An interesting cultural lesson for me today was I finally found out the purpose of those silver baubles that are on the table that I noticed so many Moroccan families had.  The item with the long thin top is filled with perfumed water, or in this case rose water and when offered one should cup their hands allow the host to sprinkle some of the water and then smooth the water over your face (which I learned by Fatima's miming for me).  "For your beauty" was Fatima's daughter's explanation.  It really is quite refreshing and smells very pretty. The orb shaped object (by me) was an incense burner.

Eid also brought about goodbyes to Chiranyu another American student living with with Fatima, Adil and I in Fes.  He had finished his program a few weeks before I arrived but wanted to stay through Eid before heading up to Tangiers.  He's been in Morocco for several months now and I must say I'm impressed with his Arabic skills, but he's been studying Arabic for a couple years back in the states so my 3 weeks of study are nothing in comparison. Check us out in our snazzy caftans to celebrate Eid!  Being a casual short sleeved one mine's is more meant for wear inside the house and is only worn around outside by silly tourists like me, but whatever it's still pretty.  Its not that its caftans aren't worn outside, but in a city like Fes which is the spiritual and cultural capital of the country, the standard of dress is a bit more conservative than the rest of the country.  So pro tip, if you want to fit in as a woman, don a djellaba.  They are also just really convenient because you can throw is on over whatever bum clothes you were wearing around the house, throw on scarf and your out the door looking like a perfectly respectable Moroccan lady.


Although, its been a long couple of days with so many people coming in and out of the house, its been my favorite days in Fes so far.  These minions might tire me out especially because they're allowed to be up and loud well past midnight due to the celebration, but I enjoy having some excitement around because its pretty quiet when its just Fatima, Adil and I.  Also here's what happens when Hamudah gets control of your phone.  You end up with about 50 pictures which are pretty much identical to the one on the left from his button mashing amusement and the occasional nicely posed photo of two cousins who like each other for a moment.  Sorry for the rambling, I'm pretty tired so until next time...Laila Saida or good night!

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